FAQ

No. This is the question we get most, and the answer is no — bring the part as it sits. Rusty, painted, previously powder coated, covered in old undercoating: getting it back to bare metal is part of the job. You don't need to find a stripper and a blaster before you find a coater.

We don't coat over any of it — we take it off first. Powder sprayed over rust, mill scale or old paint will look fine for a while and then fail, usually by lifting in sheets. Old coatings come off chemically or mechanically depending on the part and the base metal, then the part gets blasted to a clean profile.

No minimum. One wheel is fine, one bracket is fine. We also run production batches for shops and fabricators, so the same shop handles a single part and a few hundred.

It depends on size, how many pieces, what shape the parts are in and what finish you want — stripping a rusted frame is a different job than coating new bare-metal brackets. Send a photo and rough dimensions and we'll get you a number, usually the same day.

Fast turnaround on standard work. Candy and clear-over-base finishes take longer because they're multiple trips through the oven, and heavy stripping adds time up front. We'll give you a realistic timeline when we quote the job, not a number we can't hit.

Text a photo of the parts and rough dimensions to (352) 681-9858, or fill out the quote form on the contact page and attach a few shots. Photos are the fastest way — we can usually tell what the part needs just by looking at it.

Effectively any color. We keep a working set of powders on hand and order anything else in from Prismatic Powders, Columbia Coatings or TIGER Drylac — thousands of colors across gloss, satin, matte, texture, metallic and candy finishes. The colors page walks through how to pick one.

Usually, yes. Bring a sample part, a paint chip or a RAL number and we'll work from it. An exact match to an existing coated part isn't always possible in powder, but we'll tell you honestly how close we can get before you commit.

Anything that can't take oven heat — plastic, rubber, wood, and most composites. Powder also can't handle sustained exhaust temperatures, so headers and turbo housings need a high-temp coating instead of powder. Some castings and older pot metal can outgas and need special handling; we'll flag it if we see it.

Yes — tires, valve stems and wheel weights all have to come off before a wheel goes in the oven. If you need that done, get the wheels to a tire shop first or let us know and we'll help you sort out the order of operations.

If you can easily pull off rubber, plastic, bearings, seals, bushings and glass, do it — it saves masking time and keeps the cost down. If something won't come apart, bring it anyway and tell us; masking off what has to stay is normal work.

The shop is in Mechanicsville, Maryland, and drop-off is by appointment so somebody's there to take the parts and talk through the job. Most work comes from the surrounding region, but we're not drawing a line on a map — if you can get parts to us, we'll coat them.

Yes. Subcontract finishing for shops and fabricators is a core part of what we do, including overflow when your usual coater is backed up. Call and we'll talk through volume, turnaround and how you want parts packaged.

For most parts, yes. Powder goes on thicker than wet paint and cures into a hard, continuous film, so it holds up much better to stone chips, UV and salt. It's not indestructible — it can still be gouged or chipped by a hard enough hit — but the prep underneath matters more to how long it lasts than the powder itself does.